|
|
|
The lip of baits can become weakened due to stresses of everyday use. Hang-ups, snags, bottom scrapes, improper handling or even battling a large fish can cause the lip to fracture or break-off entirely. Fortunately for this Smithwick Rogue, the lip, although broken is still intact. |
|
With a couple of quick measurements combined with the detached lip piece, we can construct a new lip closely to the original size specifications. |
|
If the lip fragment were lost, you would have to measure the lip from another lure. In the next chapter we will look at this situation as an "opportunity". This would be a great chance to experiment with different lip designs. But, for now, we only desire to repair the lure and restore its original action. Begin by making a template with all of the data you have gathered. |
|
The original lip measured .068" thick. The closest standard replacement material size available is .063" (1/16"). However, the next available size is .094" (3/32"). Because the slot on the lure which holds the lip will have to be widened, we have elected to upgrade to the thicker material. It will also have the added benefit of greater strength. The thicker material is 38% heavier, and how that will affect action is thought to be negligible, but yet to be known. Use polycarbonate for the lip material, commonly sold under a variety of trade names including Lexan®. The age of this lure is evident by the discoloring of the clear plastic lip, compared to the polycarbonate. |
|
Most polycarbonate comes with a protective film. Simply unveil the film, place your template underneath, reapply the film and trace the pattern. |
|
Use a bandsaw to cut along the outline. A blade with 10-14 tpi (for metal cutting) works well. |
|
The radius can be shaped by hand with the aid of a belt sander. Bring the lip to its finished size with this operation. |
|
Compare the lip with the pattern made earlier. The edges can now be made smooth with 220 grit sandpaper. |
|
Use 600 grit sandpaper to prep all surfaces of the lip for top coating. Use a circular sanding pattern. A notch was cut into one side of the lip with the bandsaw about .010" to .020" deep. This feature gives the epoxy used to bond the lip to the bait greater holding power and resistance to being pulled out. NOTE: this sanding ("prep") procedure is only necessary of you intend to topcoat the entire lure with epoxy, including the lip. An acceptable alternate is to skip this step and simply bond the lip in place. However, topcoating the lip aids in securing the lip as well as adding luster to the finish. |
|
Begin to extract the lip fragments which are anchored in the lure by carefully trimming away the adhesive used to secure the lip. |
|
Use a sharp razor knife to separate the lip from the lure. This method is a bit like pulling teeth. With any luck, you can free the lip and remove with pliars. |
|
For lips that can not be extracted, carefully use a bandsaw to trim away the remains of the lip. Take care not to widen the slot more than the material you are using to replace the lip with. Make sure that the lure lies level on the table to avoid cutting the slot at the wrong angle on the other side. The blade should follow the original lip slot. WARNING - some lures such as Rapala use "through-wire" construction. Using this method will cut through the internal wire and cause unrepairable damage. A burr or milling bit on a die grinder is the recommended method to extract the lip from these types of lures. |
|
Check for proper fit and allignment. |
|
Use a two part epoxy, such as Devcon 2-Ton (5 minute), to bond the lip to the lure. Apply a thin coat to the anchor area of the lip. Install with the notch facing forward. |
|
Wipe away excess epoxy from the face and sides of the lip. Adding a small bead of epoxy to the underside (only) for reinforcement is advisable. |
|
Allow the epoxy to fully cure for at least two hours. Remove any excess from the face of the lip, and prep the surface again if necessary. Excess epoxy on the face of the lip is undesireable as it changes the hydrodynamics of the lure and is subject to cracking when flexed. Gently flex the bill by hand, trying to simulate the conditions of the lure in use. Some cracking and settling of excess epoxy may be heard. This is of little concern, as the topcoat (next step) will fill in any voids or crevices. Again, remove any solidified epoxy from the face of the lip, prep the surface again with 600 grit sandpaper, and trim any excess epoxy from the sides. |
|
Wipe the lure clean with water and apply a topcoat of epoxy as instructed in CH 1 (if the lure does not have a protective sealed topcoat as the Rapala in CH 1, omit sanding the entire lure, or you will damage the paint). The "preped" lip surface is now once again transparent, and the lure has a new protective topcoat which adds flash and luster. |
| Next Chapter - Tricking Out Baits. Go To CH5 | |
|
|
(since 1/4/04) |
|
- Presented for Alamo Area Anglers - |
|
Copyright © 2004 River City Tackle Crafters. This copyright grants reproduction for personal, non-commercial use only. |
|
